The styles of New Zealand Fashion Week 2012 are about to touch down

| May 9, 2013 | 0 Comments

RUNWAY REPORT

New Zealand Fashion Week 2012 showed upcoming trends for winter 2013. Fashion and beauty journalist Miranda Likeman was there for Headway Magazine and gives us a rundown of the collections, makeup and hairstyles that are about to hit the stores.

New Zealand Fashion Week 2012 was one of contrasts. The country has seen some tough times, the retail sector very much so; the absence of some heavy hitters from the fashion industry (for whatever reason) cast an absentee pall across the event.

On the other hand the comradery amongst the stayers mixed with the optimism of the relatively newbies made for a family atmosphere; the ability to fondly recall times past whilst holding a firm hope for the future.

This sentiment translated right down to the collections on the catwalk, the makeup and hair – a longing for bygone eras blended with an optimistic breath of fresh air.

The twenty-seven names’ winter 2013 collection, i thought you’d never ask, epitomised this perfectly – featuring garments with 19th century detailing and hand-printed silk alongside bright multi-colours and polka dots.

Ingrid Starnes

Michael Beel from Wellington’s Buoy salon lead a team of experienced ghd stylists to create a look for the show that was full and slightly textured; think 90’s inspired volume meets the mother out of the ‘Beethoven’ movie. Beel had only ten minutes to change the twenty-seven names look to fit the aesthetic and collection of Ingrid Starnes Hunt’s End.

Beel had been busy in the lead up to Fashion Week, having practiced for the madness backstage on WORLD’s in season show, Black Tie White Noise, ten days prior at the Langham hotel.  He described the look as “smooth elegance meets Alien, with makeup by James Luii for Shiseido.

RUBY
Liam

Seemingly happy to set himself the challenge of another double show, Beel also took on RUBY and their sister label Liam. For autumn/winter 2013 RUBY flirted with the idea of polished grunge in their range Mr Destiny, with a casual and effortless hair-down look that epitomizes the RUBY girl.

The Liam range has an understated and elegant feel, with a focus on clothing that functions and transitions easily between home, work or entertaining. “We created an up-do that looked as though the girls had done it themselves,” says Michael. “It exuded classic beauty.”

Andrea Moore

Also inspired by a twist on the up-do, Andrea Moore’s The Hunt saw Sara Allsop and stylists from Auckland’s Dharma Salon create a dynamic look that matched the bold colour, equestrian detailing and tailored silhouettes of Moore’s collection.

A vast array of products from the ghd Style & Brush range paired with the powerful ghd Air and ghd Gold Series stylers gave the hair a look that was kempt, clean and structured. “The texture on the ends of the hair was the focus of the look,” says Allsop.

Napoleon Perdis echoed the fierce yet foxy theme with modern huntress makeup. “This is a great look to pull out when you’ve only got a few minutes to put yourself together for an evening out,” says Perdis of the concept. “The eyes are the standout, a winged black and gold smoky eye,” he says. “Skin is flawless and light, with a slight contour.”

Company of Strangers

Fraser Foulagi of Ryder Salon created a beautiful sleek, straight look with a twist for Company of Strangers. Traditionally straightened locks are high shine, so for a slightly edgier look, Fraser opted for a matte finish. Finishing hair with KMS Makeover Spray gives a matte effect.

Foulagi also created a variety of looks for four different designers in the New Generation show. With twenty models, the KMS Creative Team was all hands on deck backstage creating a different hair look for each designer.

With a very avant garde, futuristic feel to the Dmonic Intent collection, the KMS team created a high, tousled bun perched high on the head towards the front. Hair was prepped with KMS Hot Flex Spray to allow reworkability and give a lasting structured style, while KMS Medium Hold Hairspray finished the look and provided hold for the bun.

New Generation

Strikingly different, Silence was… presented a floaty, feminine collection with an edge was complimented with soft ringlets and waves. The hair was swept up and forward through the top of small visor-like hats, perched on an angle on the head. KMS Dry Touch-up was used to give softness and managability to the hair.

Stepping back in time, Arielle Mermin’s collection had a 70’s, boho feel, lending itself well to wild texture and ringlets in the hair. Plenty of body and volume was created with KMS Makeover in the roots, and the style was finished using KMS Maximum Hold Hairspray.

Hair was parted in the centre and ironed straight, with liberal amounts of KMS Makeover Spray applied through sections of hair to absorb oil and create a matte effect. Hair was also finished with Makeover Spray to eliminate any shine from the surface. Three extra-long bobby pins finished the look, and were placed behind the ears to hold hair back and create more edge.

Daniel K offered a classic collection with bold prints partnered with voluminous hair and light body leading into bouncy curls. KMS Root and Body Lift was used in the roots of the hair to give volume and lift.

He started a trend of his own when textured curls, created using a combo of curling tongs and straightening irons, also appeared in the Deryn Schmidt show.  Deryn made her debut as part of New Generation last year featuring a range inspired by the cautious optimism of the post war period – but in her first solo show, her designs seem to have gained a sense of unrestrained freedom, with jackets and blazers in every imaginable fabric and colour. To emulate this look, prep hair with KMS Hot Flex Spray, and curl random sections with your tool of choice. Break up curls slightly with fingers, and pin small sections into the back of the head, being sure to hide bobby pins. Pull out and fluff up the hair on the back of the head, creating a tousled effect. Finish with KMS Makeover Spray and a blast of KMS Dry Wax to give more texture and hold.

Trelise Cooper
Coop

Always the ultimate expression of contrasts, backstage hair for the Cooper and Trelise Cooper show was once again directed by Grant Bettjeman and Sasha Lenski, supported by 17 key and support stylists. Every year Trelise adds an element of the spectacular for her show: 2012 did not disappoint, with backdrop of sparkling lights resembling the Brighton Pier, goodie bags that featured star like pinpricks of light that you could turn on and off, and when the show drew to a close, three models wearing colour-changing balloon skirts emerged.

Cooper is the younger more relaxed label, with lots of bright colours, Asian prints, bold patterns, sequins and metallics. The classic Trelise Cooper collection was reminiscent of elegant ladies with a 30’s meets a Downton Abbey Edwardian influence.  The Bettjemans team styled the hair with a loose, textured ‘bob’ tucked in to the clothing, creating a curly, messy chic look. To create this look use L’Oréal Professionnel texture expert lumicontrôle delivering texture to the hair.

After the Cooper collection, the skilled team of stylists quickly readied the hair for the pre-styled hair pieces and attached them with Velcro and elastic around the chin to hold them firmly in place. L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium Lumiere hair spray was used to hold the hair softly and then a veil was draped over the models’ faces, and feathers were added to complete the elegant up-dos.

“With 28 models to work on, it was essential to have a big team to reach our desired look on time,” says Grant. “Without that support, the task at hand would have been mission impossible,” he says. “Trelise always comes to us with her ideas and her inspiration for the shows. We then take her ideas and build on them to deliver stand out hair. After working with Trelise for all these years we’ve managed to nurture a great relationship. We both have similar ideas and when we talk her through our vision, she is always on the same page. With Trelise we’ve never had to come up with a plan B.”

From a hair point of view, one of the most interesting shows of New Zealand Fashion Week was the NZ Weddings show. With creative direction from Iain Smith, and using styling essentials from the Joico and Structure ranges, the Joico team of stylists created a romantic take on braids for the catwalk. A textured braided crown formed the perfect harness for securing veils and ethereal waves that framed the face. With braids being talk of the trends this past spring, the look was just the right timing with wedding season looming.

Michelle Yvette
NZ Weddings Magazine
Crane Brothers

Jamie Ridge opened the wedding show in a Michelle Yvette dress, followed by something for every type of bride to wear on her big day; from an A La Robe shawl with delicate vintage crotchet detail on the back, to a John Zimmermann dress with beading detail and little feathers on the sleeves. The groom wasn’t left out with a great collection of suits from the Crane Brothers.

But it was the heavy hitters of Huffer and Stolen Girlfriends’ that summed up what 2013 holds for Kiwi fashionistas:  Huffer’s collection once again promised a laid back winter for the cool kids with retro Mexicana and an injection of cobalt blue and red. Shown on a set featuring primary coloured concrete breeze blocks, doily covered shelves and cactus; models would reveal framed lookbook shots once they completed their turn on the runway. Hair was understandably relaxed, featuring a brushed just-rolled-out-of-bed look that matches their aesthetic so well.

Stolen Girlfriends'

Showmanship is also the hallmark of Stolen Girlfriends’ Marc Moore and Dan Gosling, so no one was surprised to find themselves jammed into a car park to witness their Winter 2013 collection, Dead End. To kick off, the 500-plus crowd were plunged into darkness before being asked to light up their mobile phones. As they did, four broad-shouldered figures could be seen stalking through the shadows. Lights, action: enter a procession of black-booted models to the beat of a marching drum.

The clothes focussed on texture and pattern, with lemon yellow a highlight amongst a neutral palette of black and tan and ribbed wool, tweed, pleather and knit jersey. Fashionz writer Delaney MacDonald obviously felt the same sentiment as I when commenting: “There’s something like a ‘new nineties’ vibe to SGC’s collections; but while there were links with a past decade, there was nothing nostalgic about Dead End: this is the look of the moment for a large part of New Zealand.”

I couldn’t have said it better myself: because whatever challenges fashion in New Zealand face, however the hurdles thin out the herd: there will always be a Kiwi look, and it will always offer a nod to the past whilst it firmly strides towards a unique future.

Miranda Likeman has been every kind of journalist you could name. At present she writes mostly about fashion and beauty, subjects on which she has much experience, but not in a stuffy inaccessible way. She loves a bargain and making the affordable look expensive.

HEADWAY magazine is in it’s 32nd year of publication. Other magazines have come and gone, but for decades Headway was the only publication for and about hair and beauty care professionals. Find out more about HEADWAY at their website here.

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